![]() The old mount can be removed to the back and alongside the steering column. Mine wasn’t leaking any fluid and there didn’t seem to be any in there. Aside from the engine mount bolt, there’s another small bolt into the side of the engine block if you decide to take it out. It’s probably not necessary to remove it at all. There’s also a heat shield that covers the top of the mount. I didn’t, but you might leave the bolt in the bracket.Ħ. Once loose, the bolt can be ratcheted out of the mount. Put the extension into the open end of the wrench and pull toward the rear of the car. Slide the extensions down, slanted toward the back of the car - behind the half shaft - to get your lever point. You'll need all of the 3/8" extensions you have (probably close to 20"). From the top, you'll see the open end of the wrench. Stubby on the bolt and position it parallel to the front bumper. After many many tries, I found that the best leverage to break the bolt loose was to put Mr. (a 5/8" or 16MM stubby ratchet wrench, preferably with a 72 point ratchet)(Once you've done this, you'll understand why it's MR. It is back under the manifold, so there is no real room to get a good grip on a wrench. The top bolt on the engine mount is the tough one. Only the bolts at the very back were too bad to reuse.ĥ. I expected a lot of trouble and destruction getting the pipe off, but that was not the case. The exhaust has 2 bolts into the manifold, two in a bracket alongside the transmission, one in a clamp that hold the two sides together just before the joint with the rear pipes and two bolts in a compression clamp at the end of the pipe. If you need to change the O2 sensors soon, this is an opportune time.Ĥ. You do not need to undo the serpentine belt or do anyhting with the power steering pump or a/c compressor.ģ. You MUST remove the left exhaust pipe from the manifold back to the next joint (which is a couple feet aft of the transmission). Two small sheet metal screws hold this in place. There’s a heat shield between the cat and the steering rack. The important points and differences for the left mount (as opposed to a non-4matic) are as follows:ġ. Thanks to him for getting me on the right track. Ton圜 has some of this in another thread about the 4matic mounts. The trans and right mount went in in just over 2 1/2 hours. I tightened the top bolt enough to hold the tab in the slot and then gradually lowered the engine until the lower bolt could be started. It's not been mentioned on any of the threads I've read, but the new mount seems best reattached at the top first. The mount was about 1/2" shorter than the new one. While jiggling the top, the mount fell out backwards to the ground. After loosening the top bolt with a socket on a long extension, I jacked up the engine a little more to get clearance to remove the mount. I know now why the 2WD members don't mind a mount change. I disconnected the negative terminal of the battery, but that was probably unnecessary. ![]() The right mount is close to the front of the block. For the right mount, the jack was at the passenger end of the pan. I jacked the engine with a 2x4 scrap under the oil pan. You’ll probably need to jack it up further to get the crossmember close enough to the frame rails to reattach it. Make sure you use a jack for that support. You’ll have to support the transmission during the change. ![]() There’s 6 bolts in the crossmember, 2 into the mount itself and 4 holding the mount to the frame rails. I found that the factory mount has lost over 1/2" of height (see the pic below). At 222K miles, there was no question what needed to be done. In the last several months, the car has started to sound and feel like a diesel - vibration and low hum, especially at highway speeds.
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